Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Cost of Construction 2
Monday, April 27, 2009
Rainwater Harvesting
Rainwater harvesting reduces pressure on groundwater supplies and results in a surprisingly large decrease in volume and rate of storm water runoff from the property. Incorporation of rainwater harvesting into a “sustainable house” is consistent with the purpose of the project.
Requirements of a Rainwater Harvesting System
If a rainwater harvesting system is to be used, certain other design features are required. First, asphalt shingles should not be used in a potable system. Metal, ceramic, or slate roof materials are best. The roof should be sloped (a flat roof does not make a good surface for rainwater harvesting). Exterior features include a cistern (either above- or below-ground), piping to route the water to the cistern, and simple systems for discarding first flush water from the roof and pre-filtering water conveyed to the cistern (various designs for each are available). Features that may be located within or outside of the building shell include a shallow well pump and a line pressure tank capable of maintaining household water pressure at 40-60 psi. Interior features include a dual coarse/fine filter system followed by chemical (chlorine or ozone) or light treatment (UV) for disinfection. Additionally, valves between each operating point are useful, as is a commitment to incorporate basic water conserving techniques into daily use practices.
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Need for rain water harvesting
Rain Water Harvesting - Storage tank
(a) Number of persons in the household – The greater the number of persons, more will be requirement of water.
(b) Per capita requirement – varies from household to household, based on standard of living. The requirement also varies with season. In summer the requirement is more in comparison to winter. Similarly, the per capita requirement is more in urban areas in comparison to rural areas.
(c) Average annual rainfall
(d) Rainfall pattern – It has a significant impact on capacity of storage tank. If the rainfall is uniformly spread throughout the year, the requirement of storage capacity will be less. But if the rainfall is concentrated to a limited period in a year, the storage tanks of higher capacity will be required.
(e) Type and size of catchment – Depending upon the type of roofing material, the runoff coefficient varies which affect the effective yield from a catchment area. The size of the catchment also has a bearing on tank size. The more the catchment area, larger the size of storage tank.
Friday, April 24, 2009
Advantages of Rain Water Harvesting
Qualitative advantage
A compelling advantage of rain water over other water sources is that it is one of the purest sources of water available. Indeed, the quality of rain water is an overriding incentive for people to choose rain water as their primary water source, or for specific uses such as watering houseplants and gardens. Rain water quality almost always exceeds that of ground or surface water as it does not come into contact with soil and rocks where it dissolves salts and minerals and it is not exposed to many of the pollutants that often are discharged into surface waters such as rivers, and which can contaminate groundwater. However, rain water quality can be influenced by characteristics of area where it falls, since localized industrial emissions affect its purity. Thus, rain water falling in non-industrialized areas can be superior to that in cities dominated by heavy industry or in agricultural regions where crop dusting is prevalent.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Caribbean Tour
Fire-Protection Concepts
2. Provide means for prompt detection of fires, with warnings to occupants who may be affected and notification of the presence of fire to fire fighters.
3. Communication of instructions to occupants as to procedures to adopt for safety, such as to staying in place, proceeding to a designated refuge area, or evacuating the building.
4. Provide means for early extinguishment of any fire that may occur, primarily by automatic sprinklers but also by trained fire fighters.
5. Make available also for fire fighting an adequate water supply, appropriate chemicals, adequate-size piping, conveniently located valves on the piping, hoses, pumps, and other equipment necessary.
6. Prevent spread of fire from building to building, either through adequate separation or by enclosure of the building with incombustible materials.
7. Partition the interior of the building with fire barriers, or divisions, to confine a fire to a limited space.
8. Enclose with protective materials structural components that may be damaged by fire (fireproofing).
9. Provide refuge areas for occupants and safe evacuation routes to outdoors.
10. Provide means for removal of heat and smoke from the building as rapidly as possible without exposing occupants to these hazards, with the air-conditioning system, if one is present, assisting the removal by venting the building and by pressurizing smoke proof towers, elevator shafts, and other exits.
11. For large buildings, install standby equipment for operation in emergencies of electrical systems and elevators.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
CURVED LINES
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Green building policy
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Some tips for creating a pond around your home - part 2
Renovation of a pond is best done easily in autumn—before hibernation starts, but when the breeding season has finished. Any dead leaves should be removed. Plants that have become overgrown should be reduced in size, and waste removed from the bottom of the pond.
Creating a pond—A Student’s Guide
It is better to leave the material that has been taken out, at the edge of the pond for a few days. This means that any creatures hiding in the pile can return to the water. Don’t throw away all the sludge from the bottom. Put a bucketful back as it will contain a huge range of water dwelling creatures. In spring change about 10% of the pond’s water, especially if the level is low. Over winter try to remove leaves as they blow or fall into the pond.
Materials to line a pond
Probably the best liner for a school pond is a heavy duty butyl rubber liner. This can be moulded to fit any hole shape. The other alternatives are:
· Pre-shaped fibreglass shells (although size and shape is limited)
· Black polythene sheeting (has a fairly short life)
· Concrete (usually costly and not practical for small ponds)
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Water Conservation
Proper soil preparation is the key to successful water conservation. If the soil is very sandy, water and valuable nutrients will be lost due to leaching below the root zone. If your soil is heavy clay, common in this area, you will lose water through runoff. A good soil, one that supports healthy plant life and conserves moisture, has a balance of rather coarse soil clusters (aggregates), sand and pore spaces. The “ideal” soil has as much as 50 percent by volume pore space, with the soil itself consisting of a good balance of sand, silt and clay.
A major problem with heavy soils is that clay tends to dominate the soil complex. Clay is composed of microscopic crystals arranged in flat plates. When a soil has a high number of these crystals, they act much like a glue, cementing the particles of sand and silt together and resulting in a compact, almost airless soil. Such soils usually repel surface water, resulting in runoff. What water does get into these soils is held so tightly by the clay itself that plants cannot use it. Plants in a clay soil, even though it is moist, often wilt from lack of moisture. Plant roots also need air to thrive. In clay soils, air spaces are small and may be filled with water, so plant roots often suffer from oxygen starvation. In very sandy soils, the opposite is true. Sandy soils have very large pore spaces. Because the particles are large, there is little surface area to hold the water, so sandy soils tend to lose water rapidly.
A good soil is not made in just one year. Add organic matter annually to garden areas. In areas to be sodded or seeded, add organic amendments as a onetime procedure. Take advantage of this one time before seeding or sodding by doing a thorough, complete job. This encourages deep roots that tap the water stored in the soil and reduces the need for wasteful, frequent water applications.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Watering your garden - Some tips
When to apply water
The best time of day to irrigate with sprinklers is early morning, so that tree leaves, turf, and other landscape plants can dry during daylight hours. This reduces chances of disease (rot) problems. Watering very late in the day or at night is not normally recommended. However, in areas where water conservation is critical, pre-dawn or late-night application is used to reduce water loss through evaporation.
How often to apply water
Trees require the most attention to irrigation after planting and during establishment. After the newly planted tree has become established and its roots are able to find water in the soil, watering frequency can decrease. Newly planted trees. Newly planted trees have small root systems and can take up water from only a very limited area. For the first 6 months after planting, apply water at least once a week (more often during dry periods and the first month after planting). From month 7 through 12, water deeply at least once a month. Established trees. Watering frequency for trees planted more than four years in the landscape is determined by the amount of weekly rainfall and the soil type.
How much water to apply
Ideally, water from rain or irrigation should penetrate the soil beyond the root zone to “re-charge” the reserve of soil water. One inch of rain per week provides adequate water and recharge for “normal” soils and trees. If rain is lacking, irrigation should be planned to match this amount. Soil type and drainage determine how deeply a given amount of water moves in the soil. Various devices that measure soil moisture penetration may be purchased from garden supply stores.